Recently, Feng Jiyan, the representative inheritor of the Pu silk weaving craftsmanship of the provincial intangible cultural heritage project, donated Pu silk, rhombus double chi pattern, etc. to the China Silk Museum. Four traditional Pu silk patterned fabrics. This move is not only conducive to the study of Pu silk weaving culture, but also further enriches the collection of the China Silk Museum.
Feng Jiyan, the founder of Tongxiang Wanjintang Silk Textile Co., Ltd., is the intangible inheritor of Pu silk weaving technology and the fourth generation successor of Zheng Taihe Dyeing House. He has been engaged in the inheritance, research and creation of Pu silk weaving technology for a long time and has authored the book “Tracing the Origin of Pu Silk”. He also participated in drafting the group standards of “Pu Silk” and “Zhejiang Textile Standard”, and his work “Pu Silk Series” won the 16th The Silver Award for Arts and Crafts at the China Yiwu Cultural and Tourism Products Trade Expo, and the work “Pu Silk Clothing – Ink Lotus Pattern Dress with Tuanhua Miscellaneous Treasure Pattern Shawl” won the Gold Award at the 4th Jiaxing City Arts and Crafts Exhibition.
Pu silk, also known as Puyuan silk, is a famous silk fabric produced in the Puyuan area during the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. It is one of the famous silk varieties in the history of silk in my country. It is also known as the “Four Famous Silks in Jiangnan” together with Hangzhou Fang, Hu Crepe and Ling Satin.
Puyuan was named after Emperor Gaozong’s consort of the Southern Song Dynasty, Pu Feng, a native of Lu, came to Tongxiang to settle down and develop the silk weaving industry, and was later granted the Pu family residence by Emperor Lizong of the Song Dynasty. Since the Pu family moved to the local area in the Song Dynasty, the mulberry farming and silk weaving industries have continued to develop. The Pu silk produced is white, smooth, and flexible. It is the highest quality silk and has been widely used by royal officials in the past dynasties. It enjoys a high reputation at home and abroad. The prosperity lasted for more than 700 years.
Pu silk has exquisite weavers, fine fabrics, soft and smooth, tough and wear-resistant, and has the characteristics of not folding in the wind or fading in the sun. According to legend, Zhu Di, the founder of the Ming Dynasty, ordered his people to erect a military flag that could withstand wind and sand at Shanhaiguan, “the first pass in the world” to show military power. Pu silk stood out after testing many silk products. The Shanhaiguan military flag made of Pu silk is still brightly colored after several months. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Pu silk became the silk used in the palace and was often used in the production of military flags, battle robes, and brocade uniforms. It is also known as “the best silk in the world”. There are many kinds of Pu silk products recorded in history, including silk, damask, Luo, yarn, crepe, silk and other varieties. The weaving technology is very particular and the division of labor is very fine. The production process from silk to silk requires the hands of many people and cannot be completed by one person. Every process is very particular.
In June 2009, Pu silk weaving technology was included in the third batch of representative projects of Zhejiang Province’s intangible cultural heritage. At present, the research on Pu silk mainly includes: represented by Feng Jiyan, who conducted relevant research on the history, production process and application process of Pu silk; represented by Chen Xuewen, who analyzed the economy of Pu silk in Puyuan from an economic perspective .
It is understood that in order to further inherit and develop the precious intangible cultural heritage and let “the world’s best silk” regain its glory, in August last year, Puyuan Town specially organized a seminar on the protection and development of Pu silk intangible cultural heritage, from Experts on silk intangible cultural heritage projects across the country gathered together to discuss how to excavate and study the history and culture of Pu silk, cultivate and introduce talents, and activate and display intangible cultural heritage products, so as to do a good job in Pu silk. Restoration, protection and development of silk.
Next, Puyuan will focus on developing regional culture, reproducing Pu silk craftsmanship, restoring, protecting and developing Pu silk, fully exploring the technological characteristics of Pu silk in all aspects from raw material selection, reeling to finished products, and establishing specialized work Site and Pu Silk Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum. At the same time, Feng Jiyan, who has a clear inheritance pedigree and masters project knowledge and core skills, was determined to be the intangible inheritor of Pu silk. He explored and summarized the experience of Pu silk production, carried out rescue protection in a timely manner, and maintained the integrity of the traditional process and the authenticity of the core skills. Carry out orderly inheritance.
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