Reed design
(1) The basis for determining the reed width. The effective width of the finished fabric is also called the door width, and the unit is cm. Generally, the reed width is calculated based on the effective width of the finished product. At the same time, the design of the effective width of the finished product is also restricted by the weaving process and dyeing and finishing process. The main purpose of silk fabric is to make work clothes, and the effective width also changes constantly with the styles of work clothes and people’s wearing habits. Its other use is decoration, and the effective width is determined by the structure and requirements of the clothing content. From the perspective of ease of production and management, it is not expected that the effective width specifications of the fabric will be too complicated. With the progress of the garment industry, mechanized cutting does not expect too many effective width specifications. Therefore, it is advocated to consolidate the effective width of silk fabrics within a period of time based on consumption characteristics and production possibilities, and work towards the goal of standardization and unification. There are two types of gauges for the effective width of finished products, namely fixed type and variable type. The fixed type often appears in the design of decorative silks, such as quilt covers, bedspreads, table rugs, cushions, etc. The specifications are uniform, and the effective width depends on the decorative object, and generally does not make excessive changes; the variable type is suitable for the design of clothing silk. For example, the same variety can have multiple different effective widths to meet people’s needs for tailoring various work clothes and different body types. Judging from the development trend, whether it is domestic sales or export sales, there is a trend of development in a broad direction. (2) Reed width calculation 1. Estimation: Since the warp and weft threads of the fabric maintain a large tension on the machine, the tension disappears after falling off the machine, and a certain amount of shrinkage must occur. In addition, raw woven silk still needs to be bleached and dyed, which will also produce a certain amount of shrinkage. The weaving shrinkage caused by weaving and the scouring shrinkage caused by scouring and bleaching are converted into percentages, collectively referred to as the shrinkage rate. The formula is as follows:
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