Recently, the “Pu Silk” “Zhejiang Silk Textile” was drafted by the Zhejiang Light Industrial Products Quality Inspection Institute, with Tongxiang Wanjintang Silk Textile Co., Ltd. as the main drafter, and Zhejiang Sci-Tech University and Tongxiang Taisheng Import and Export Co., Ltd. The “Textile Labeling” group standard passed the review. This is the first time that the Provincial Light Industry Quality Inspection Institute has participated in the standardization exploration of intangible cultural heritage projects. Through standardized means, it has polished the “golden business card” of intangible cultural heritage projects.
Pu silk refers to the traditional silk products produced in Puyuan, Tongxiang, Zhejiang. There are silk, silk, damask, Luo and other varieties. Pu silk has exquisite weavers, fine texture, soft and smooth, bright colors and toughness. Wear-resistant, with the characteristics of not folding in the wind or fading in the sun, it is also known as the “four famous silks in the south of the Yangtze River” along with Hangzhou spinning, Hu crepe and rhombus satin. It is said that the banner of Shanhaiguan during the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty and the Huanglong flag used by the Qing Dynasty court were Made of Pu silk. Pu silk weaving technology was included in the third batch of Zhejiang Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage List in 2009.
Pu silk uses earthen silk with a linear density (denier) of 44.4/48.9 dtex (40/44 Denier) and above as the main raw material, using single or double strands of warp or weft, and jacquard Made by weaving, dyeing, gluing (rubbing) and other processes. The technical indicators of this standard are formulated with reference to the GB/T 15551-2016 “Mulberry Silk Fabric” standard. In order to highlight the product characteristics, the strength index is improved and the wear-resistant performance index is added. The expert group listened to the standard working group’s explanation of the preparation of the standard and reviewed the standard text one by one. The expert group believed that the technical indicators of the standard were reasonably set, consistent with product characteristics, and met user needs. They unanimously agreed to pass the review of the standard and put forward modification opinions.
The formulation of this standard is conducive to the marketization and industrialization of Pu silk intangible cultural heritage, and has positive significance for the inheritance and development of Zhejiang Province’s mulberry and silk culture. The Provincial Light Industry Quality Inspection Institute will use Pu silk as an example and the standard series as a carrier to explore ways to combine traditional skills represented by the Pu silk craft intangible cultural heritage project with modern industrial manufacturing standards, and actively think about and practice the textile intangible cultural heritage. The “standardization + action” of protection, inheritance and innovation promotes and enhances the influence and competitiveness of Zhejiang’s textile intangible cultural heritage, tells the story of Zhejiang’s intangible cultural heritage, highlights the charm of Zhejiang’s Jiangnan, and supports the living inheritance of Zhejiang’s textile intangible cultural heritage projects.
Keywords:
“Pu Silk” Zhejiang Textile Label
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