Due to the organization used in the fabric, the arrangement of colored yarns, the raw materials and special numbers of the yarns, the density of the yarns, the The direction and degree of twist of the thread, as well as the structure and finishing method of the yarn vary. The result is a different appearance of the fabric.
In order to produce, innovate or imitate products, it is necessary to master the fabric structure and the machine technical conditions of the fabric and other information. For this reason, fabrics must be analyzed thoughtfully and carefully in order to obtain correct analysis results and provide information for designing, transforming or imitating fabrics.
In order to obtain more accurate analysis results, it is necessary to plan the analyzed items and their sequence before analysis order. The operation process must be meticulous, and the fabric sample materials must be saved as much as possible under the conditions that meet the analysis conditions.
Fabric analysis is generally performed in the following order.
One: Sampling
When analyzing fabrics, the accuracy of the data is related to the sampling location and sample area, so there should be certain regulations on the sampling method. Since there are so many varieties of fabrics and they are very different from each other, the selection of samples in actual work should be based on specific circumstances.
(1) Sampling position
After the fabric is off the machine, the width and length of the fabric will change slightly due to the balancing effect of the warp and weft yarn tension. This change results in a difference in density between the edges and the middle of the fabric, as well as the two ends of the fabric. In addition, during the dyeing and finishing process, the changes produced at the two ends, edges and middle of the fabric are also different.If the number of yarns is equal, each large grid can be regarded as a group and divided into odd and even number groups corresponding to the odd and even number groups of the yarn. In this way, the interweaving rules of the disassembled yarns in the yarn can be very precise. Conveniently record on the squares of the craft paper.
(2) The method of splitting yarn without groups: After understanding the method of splitting yarn without groups, it is easy to understand the method of splitting yarn without groups. First, choose the analysis surface. The direction of yarn splitting is the same as that of splitting yarn into groups. This method does not need to group the yarn tassels. You only need to gently dial the yarn tassels into the yarn tassels and write down the pattern of interweaving warp and weft yarns on the paper. That’s it.
2. Local analysis method: Some fabric surfaces have patterns locally, and the organization of the ground cloth is very simple. At this time, you only need to analyze the situation of the pattern and ground cloth respectively; then according to the number of warp and weft yarns of the pattern and the organization of the ground cloth By counting the number of cycles, you can calculate the number of warp and weft yarns in a pattern cycle without having to draw each warp and weft weave point one by one. You must pay attention to the unification of the starting points of the ground weave and the pattern weave.
3. Direct observation method Experienced craftsmen or fabric designers can use the direct observation method to directly observe the fabric by relying on eyesight or using a cloth mirror, and fill in the observed interlacing patterns of warp and weft yarns into the squares of the craft paper one by one. middle. During analysis, you can fill in the interweaving status of several more warp and weft yarns in order to correctly find out the complete organization of the fabric. This method is simple and easy to implement and is mainly used to analyze original weave fabrics with low single-layer density and large number of yarns and simple small pattern weave fabrics.
When analyzing the fabric structure, in addition to being meticulous and patient, you must also pay attention to the structure and color of the cloth sample. The arrangement relationship of yarn. For white fabrics, this problem does not exist during analysis. However, the style effect of most fabrics is not only reflected by the interweaving patterns of warp and weft, but also the appearance effect is often obtained by combining the structure with colored yarns. Therefore, when analyzing this type of fabric (dyed fabric) in which colored yarns are combined with the organization, the weave cycle and the arrangement cycle of the colored yarns must be combined. On the tissue diagram of the fabric, the color and circulation rules of the colored yarns must be marked.
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