Popular Science | Why can island silk be fluffed?

The island yarn used to produce suede is not actually a single island yarn, but an island-type composite ultra-fine mixed fiber network yarn that is processed through network processing after combining ordinary island yarn and high shrinkage yarn. It is still in production. Referred to as “island silk”. Its concept is a combination of four concepts: island yarn, composite fiber, mixed fiber and network yarn. Its yarn processing technology includes these four special fiber processing methods.

When the island silk floats on the fabric with a larger floating length On the surface, after fiber opening by the action of alkali solution, the set state of the high shrinkage yarn is released and shrinks, the sea component of the island yarn dissolves, and the island fibrils are tangled around the high shrinkage yarn in a loose manner. Island fibrils are composed of ultrafine fibers. Although the fiber specific strength is very high, the fiber diameter is very thin and the absolute strength is low.

Therefore, under the same conditions, the island fibrils formed by sea island silk are stronger than other fibers. It is easy to be worn off, resulting in many fine and even velvet clusters on the surface of the fabric. The structure of the island-type composite ultra-fine mixed fiber network yarn and the principle of the island yarn in suede fabric are shown in Figure 5.

The determining factors of the length of the island silk pile are: the length of the island silk floating line; the fabric structure; the warp and weft density; the warp and weft thread density; the shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage yarn in the composite yarn; the number of network nodes; ultra-fine The absolute strength of the fiber; the brushing process.

Among them, the most critical one is the formation of fluff determined by the fabric structure and warp and weft density. The length of the floating length of the island silk in the fabric is greater. If the number of circulating yarns in the organization is larger, the warp and weft density is smaller, and the yarn is thicker, the floating length of the island silk in the fabric will be greater, and the fluff formed on the surface of the fabric after sanding will be The longer. On the contrary, the shorter the villi.

At the same time, fluff The length also depends on the stability of the sea-island silk in the fabric. The tighter the fabric, the less likely the silk threads and fibers are to slip, the easier it is to sand, the shorter the fluff obtained, and the more uniform and delicate the fluff clusters are. On the contrary, the looser the fabric, the easier it is for the threads and fibers to slip, and the harder it is to sand, the longer the fluff obtained, and the more messy and rough the fluff clusters are. The greater the absolute strength of island silk, although its raising performance decreases, the fluff formed is relatively longer.

The length of the weft suede pile is also affected by the opening rate during tenter setting. The greater the opening rate, the greater the weft width under the same circumstances, and the longer the pile formed after sanding.

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