Textile fabric appearance quality identification method

This article introduces the identification knowledge of the appearance quality of textile fabrics in detail from several aspects such as front and back identification, reverse hair identification, defect identification, weft and skew identification and correction.

1. Front and back identification

Among various types of textile fabrics, it is difficult to distinguish the front and back sides of some fabrics. If you are slightly negligent during the garment sewing process, it is easy to make mistakes, resulting in errors, such as uneven color and luster, unequal patterns, and in serious cases, Obvious color differences, confusing patterns, and fabric inversions affect the appearance of garments. In addition to the sensory methods of seeing and touching the fabric, the authenticity of the fabric can also be identified from the fabric’s organizational structure characteristics, color characteristics, special appearance effects after special finishing, and from the fabric’s trademark stickers and seals.

　1. Identification based on the tissue structure of the fabric

(l) Plain weave fabric: The front and back sides of plain weave fabric are difficult to identify, so there is actually no difference between the front and back sides (except for printed fabrics). Generally, the front side of plain weave fabrics is relatively smooth and clean, and the color is uniform and bright.

(2) Twill fabric: Twill weave is divided into two types: single-sided twill and double-sided twill. The single-sided twill pattern is clear and obvious on the front, but blurry on the back. In addition, in terms of the inclination of the grain, the front grain of a single yarn fabric slopes from the upper left to the lower right, while the grain of a half-line fabric or a full-line fabric slopes from the lower left to the upper right. The front and back grains of a double-sided twill are basically the same, but the twill To the opposite.

(3) Satin fabric: Because more of the warp or weft yarns on the front of the satin fabric emerge from the cloth surface, the cloth surface is smooth, tight and shiny. The texture on the reverse side looks like plain or twill, with a darker luster.

In addition, warp twill and warp satin have more warp floating points on the front, and weft twill and weft satin have more weft floating points on the front.

　2. Identification based on fabric pattern and color

The patterns and patterns on the front of various fabrics are relatively clear and clean. The shape and line outline of the pattern are relatively fine and obvious, with clear layers, and the colors are bright, vivid and full. The reverse side is lighter in color than the front, the line outline is blurry, and the pattern lacks layers. , the luster is also darker.

　3. Based on fabric tissue changes and pattern identification

The texture patterns of jacquard, lattice and striped fabrics vary widely. On the front side of the texture, there are generally fewer floating yarns, and the stripes, plaids and proposed patterns are more obvious than on the reverse side, and the lines are clear, the outline is prominent, and the color isIt is uniform, bright and soft; on the reverse side, the pattern is blurred, the outline is unclear, and the color is dull. There are also some jacquard fabrics with unique and unique patterns on the reverse side, and the colors are harmonious and quiet, so the reverse side is used as the main material when making clothes. As long as the fabric yarn structure is reasonable, the floating length is uniform, and the fastness is not affected, the reverse side can also be used as the front side.

4. Identification based on fabric edge

Generally, the front side of the fabric is smoother and crisper than the back side, while the back side is curled inwards. The fabric woven by shuttleless looms has a relatively smooth edge on the front, and it is easy to find the clumps of weft yarns on the back edge. Some high-end fabrics. Such as woolen fabric. There are codes or other words woven on the edge of the fabric. The codes or words on the front are clearer, more obvious, and smoother; while the codes or words on the back are blurry and the fonts are written backwards.

5. Identification of appearance effects after special finishing of fabrics

(1) Fleece fabric: The front side of the fabric is densely piled with velvet. The reverse side is a nap-free structure. The ones with obvious ground textures include plush, velvet, velveteen, corduroy, etc. Some fabrics have dense velvet, and even the texture of the ground tissue is difficult to see.

(2) Burnt-out fabric: The pattern made by chemical treatment has clear outline, layering and bright color on the front. If it is suede burnt-out, the suede will be plump and flat, such as burnt-out silk, georgette, etc. .

　6. Identification based on trademarks and seals

When the entire piece of fabric is inspected before leaving the factory, the product trademark paper or instructions are generally affixed to the reverse side of the fabric; the factory date and inspection seal stamped on both ends of each piece and section are the reverse side of the fabric. Different from domestic products, export products have their trademarks and seals stamped on the front.

2. Identification of reverse hair

Some clothing fabrics, such as corduroy, velveteen, velvet, plush and various woolen fabrics, etc., have reverse suede surfaces. There are obvious differences in the hair on the front and back of these fabrics. Generally, if you touch it with your hands, what is supported by the hair head is the inverted hair. Those with submissive hair are Shunmao. In addition, there is a noticeable difference in color. When making clothing with this kind of fabric, it is obvious to distinguish the front and back sides of the suede. For example, the suede side of corduroy is the front side. To correctly judge the direction of the pile of the fabric, use down or smooth cutting. In addition, when cutting fabrics with velvet, it is necessary to use a single-piece cutting method so that the velvet of the main and secondary parts are consistent, otherwise the finished garment effect will be inconsistent. Some fabrics have a glitter effect, and you must also pay attention to the reverse direction, otherwise the glitter color will be inconsistent, affecting its effect. For some asymmetrical plaid fabrics, you should also pay attention to the reverse direction. The processing method is the same asThe processing method for smooth woolen materials and corduroy is the same.

3. Defect identification

The presence or absence of defects is an important criterion for testing fabric quality. The main causes of defects are as follows:

1. Defects caused by poor fiber quality are called yarn defects;

2. Defects produced during weaving are called weaving defects;

3. Defects caused during printing, dyeing, finishing and other processes are called printing defects.

Serious defects should be cut off. For relatively minor defects in woolen and silk fabrics, a small string should be tied to the edge of the fabric outside the defect as a mark, which is commonly known as a “pigtail”. For other textiles, such as artificial cotton and polyester-cotton fabrics, “pigtails” are not tied, but the grade of the fabric is evaluated according to the specific situation (severity of defects).

Slight defects will directly affect the appearance, while serious defects will damage the local strength and wear resistance, so defects on the fabric should be avoided as much as possible when cutting. If it cannot be avoided, the defects can be placed in parts of the garment that are not subject to frequent wear to avoid affecting the appearance and durability of the garment.

　1. Original yarn defects.

Fabric defects caused by yarn defects.

2. Defects in original color cloth.

3. Defects in yarn-dyed fabrics.

4. Defects in printing and dyeing cloth.

IV. Identification and correction of weft and skew

During the weaving and finishing process of various types of yarn-dyed fabrics, due to the influence of mechanical tension, the weft yarn irregularity occurs in the fabric width, which is collectively referred to as “weft skew”. Weft skew includes check skew, pattern skew and weft skew, etc. Check skew is the most common, especially in various types of plaid velvet. The weft bias of yarn-dyed fabrics has the following three forms:

1. One side weft slant: It shows that the width of the fabric is in the shape of a slant with one end high and the other low.

2. Central arcuate weft: represents the arc-shaped recess in the middle of the fabric.

3. Side arcuate weft oblique: Indicates the arc-shaped indentation on one side (left or right) of the fabric.

Regardless of the weft and skew pattern, if it is not corrected in advance, it will damage the appearance and internal quality of the garment after it is cut into clothing. For example, serious weft skew on plaid fabrics or horizontal striped fabrics will cause the left and right or front and rear parts of the garment to be out of alignment, seriously affecting the appearance quality of the garment. If the weft skew is not corrected, it will cause the weft threads of the garment to be out of alignment, causing the garment to become distorted and uneven, causing serious inherent quality problems in the finished garment.

There are two ways to correct weft skew:

1. Manual correction: Spray the raw material with water to moisten it and then pull it against each other in the weft and diagonal direction. Although this method is effective, it is labor-intensive and slow.

2. Machine correction: Most of the weft and skew correction machines are designed and manufactured by the garment factories themselves. The straightening machine consists of five major components: bracket, transmission, steam spray device, weft adjustment device and ironing roller. It is characterized by labor-saving and fast work efficiency. Some clothing materials with serious weft skew require repeated corrections to achieve results.